I wanted to share a positive experience today, as the only female in the lineup.
Clean but steep and fast waves, breaking close to shore. Small group of about 6 guys, ages ranging from tween to maybe 50.
They were good surfers. I’m not great, and felt like bailing after sitting there for 5 minutes.
But there was enough time and space between sets, and I wanted to leave at least having had a proper go
at an intimidating looking wave, even if s#@& eating probability
was 98 %.….
as I settled in and focused on watching the waves and giving it a go once in a while, I began to notice how safe I felt.
I felt safe enough to even paddle closer to the peak when it was my turn..something I find I avoid when there’s a mini crowd.
Everyone was really chill and respectful, no brash machismo, just quietly watching the waves roll
in across the beach and the rainbow that sometimes appeared in a perfect arc.
I noticed that I wasn’t the only one eating it and learnt to not let it get to me and just practice.
I’d say I landed on my feet for a second on a few waves, but I’m at the stage where
I sometimes get a bit stunned when I catch something so I tumble off .
Maybe that’s what it feels like to feel like an equal. I felt free to just quietly be.
No special treatment good or bad, nothing to proof or defend, just feeling a part of it all.